Last night’s dogbite: Monkey Gland Cocktail
Drinkage, Gin, Pastis September 4th, 2007
After my massive heart attack-inducing scare regarding my laptop last week, which suffered an untimely and irrevocable demise, I had to have a good stiff drink. And more than that, gentle reader, I wanted to tantalize myself with something new and untried. Let’s scare us up some monkeys! Monkeys = fun! Whereas laptop crashes in the middle of a business trip (and all of my business is contained in said laptop) = woe and Job-like curses to the powers that be. Or, rather, Job’s friends-like curses. Job actually turns out to be quite the existential stoic. But, I digress, to the detriment of my point.
I selected the Monkey Gland cocktail, an ill-named but interesting cocktail because it combines several of my favorite things; gin, a chance to use homemade ingredients (grenadine), a chance to feature a monkey (see right), and absinthe or an absinthe substitutes. It also features the mundane in: orange juice. Maybe that’s the ‘gland’-ish part, hmmm?
Ted Haigh, in Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails, cites this as his quinessential Prohibition cocktail given its roots in a flapper-inspired frenzy of drinking and behaving in, obviously, uninhibited monkeylike fashion. There are two basic variations on the Monkey Gland, one involving the aforementioned absinthe and the other replacing that with Benedictine. I don’t have any Benedictine…yet, but rest assured I will give the variation a shot once I do. However, that left plenty of experimenting for my eager palate to do as there are various interpretations of the appropriate ratios for the drink.
Monkey Gland Cocktail ver. 1 33
- 1 1/2 oz dry gin
- 1 1/2 oz orange juice
- 1 tsp real pomegranate grenadine
- 1 tsp pastis plus 1 dash pastis (or substitute)
Shake vigorously in an iced cocktail shaker and strain into a cocktail glass.
Tasting this, it was a surprise. It’s sort of the reverse effect of the Last Word cocktail; instead of blending everything into a homogenous, and new-flavored, whole, it brings a bright anise flavor layered on top of a pleasant herbal sweetness brought by the gin, juice, and grenadine. The pastis (I used Absente) was like a bright splash of expressionist color swathed against a mild impressionist background. Perfectly pleasant and a really nice drink to feature absinthe. Given the low volume of pastis to the two main ingredients it stands out very well and, while not truly balanced, it retains a nice character all its own in which the pieces fit together if a little apart. Let’s try the other version which is the second version provided by Gary Regan (who, according to Ted Haigh, prefers the Benedictine version) in The Joy of Mixology.
Monkey Gland Cocktail ver. 2
- 2 oz gin
- 3/4 oz orange juice
- absinthe to taste
- grenadine to taste
Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
I’m always nervous about reading ‘to taste’ in a cocktail recipe because, well, if I’ve never tried the drink before or I’m a novice at mixing drinks, how do I know what the drink’s intent was and what the impact of more or less of these ingredients will be? In other words, to have one ingredient listed ‘to taste’ seems a misfortune, to have two seems like carelessness. And, in this version, that shows. The gin comes all brawny and muscle-bound to take over the drink and, from that, the absinthe gets muddled into the background with the grenadine. And, the orange juice? Well, it’s left weeping at the altar wishing it had been engaged to a fine simian instead of a gorrilla. Which is to say, go with the first. And, once I get my Benedictine, I’ll let you know how Regan’s preference holds up.
Beware, however, of too many of these. Apparently the name derives from the practice of transplanting monkey testicles into men to “rejuvenate” them (read: make them horny). And, I can’t exactly say the cocktail doesn’t avoid achieving the desired effect completely without unwarranted surgery33 .
Next up, a ‘Spotlight On!: Zubrowka’ post, a ‘Fight Night!: Cachaca’ entry, and a little navel-gazing about MxMo XVIII: Fizz!, hosted by yours truly.3
- from Ted Haigh’s Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails333
- this sentence structure brought to you by overwrought.com333
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The Monkey Gland is one of those drinks I never really cared for until I finally made one with absinthe. As you note, the pastis really takes center stage, and its flavor was a little too aggressive for my taste in this drink (I tried it with Pernod and Herbsaint), but when I made one with absinthe, the whole herbal complexity thing came into play. While anise is still forward, there’s a lot more going on around the edges, and now the Monkey Gland is one of my favorites.
Hey Paul! Thanks for stopping in. Yeah, I was very surprised at how well this featured absinthe and both Joana and I were pleasantly surprised after the initial shock of it being so prevalent. Good to hear my tastebuds aren’t alone!
I had the same issue with the strength of the anise when I made it (http://www.lambmartini.com/?p=61). This is one of those recipes that is really only a sketch of what to mix, since any of the ingredients can be of any strength. Hendricks is one of the odd gins, like the Plymouth I used, that’s more subtle (read weaker) and is more challenging to use as a base. OJ can be of any strength, depending on the season and quality of the fruit. Grenadine is just as variable, since I’m sure there’s a lot of difference between the 1930s Savoy grenadine, Fee’s, your homemade, and my homemade (BTW, what’s your grenadine recipe?). I’ve taken to just dropping the pastis in a bit at a time until I can just taste the anise. A tsp is just way too much for any cocktail.
Nice post! Sorry I’m behind the ball in finding you guys! I’m throwing a Monkey Gland on my menu in London and still have the vote out on the Regan Version or the Savoy….I will say this..this drink features gin in a way very few do-I’ve made it with 6 different gins and every time it is a brand new drink. Also try using Turkish Raki instead of Pernod or absinthe….it sweetens it a bit but also gives it a rounder mouthfeel
Great insights Phil and Joe. I’ll admit that while I’ve made this with different gins the making of them was far apart enough that I didn’t notice the difference distinctly. I’ll have to make two back-to-back and see the effect.
This is one of my wife’s favorite ‘up’ drinks and in a moment of insight borne of boredom with a mimosa I added a drop of Pernod to it (influenced by the Monkey Gland of course) and found it really brightened up and gave a pedestrian drink a lot more depth and vitality. Orange juice and Pastis-type spirits seem to work amazingly well together.
As far as my grenadine recipe I vacilate between the hot and cold process, but use both of them from Paul’s post here:
http://www.cocktailchronicles.com/2006/05/21/grenadine-face-off/
I was going to do a DIY post on it, but I’ve yet to significantly improve on Paul’s.
[...] P.S. If you really do want a Monkey Gland, here are two recipes to try. [...]